JaJaJeEv

So Jex rather threw down the gauntlet with his superb photography debut. But as well as being his camera wallah on the walk through the old town, I managed to grab a few snaps too.

We are beginning to think of most of Nashik as a clean, modern city (although I don’t recall that being my first impression when we arrived). The old town is a different place altogether.

But the old town is a slice of medieval chaos – smells, colours, animals, foods, goods, people and vehicles all intensely blended together.

The fruit markets at the top of the hill are a photographer’s delight, although we passed on the finger food this time.

As you descend towards the river, the buildings get older and the road narrower. It’s still frantic, but step off the road into a side street, and it’s easy to find quiet, colourful patches of light.

Look harder and you’ll find intricate, wooden-carved houses – my chance to try some Ansel Adams techniques.

Eventually we reach the bottom of the hill and emerge out onto the edge of the Godavari river. It hosts the 12-yearly Kumbh Mela so provides wide open stretches of worship-worthy river bank, peppered with various shrines.

Crossing the river and looking back, you can see the old town tumbling down the south bank of the river. We find a cluster of rickshaw drivers cleaning (the underside of) their steeds.

Tuk-tuk-tuk up the hill again, and we’re back into the modern India of cash machines and coffee shops.